The LAST tip tool you will EVER buy!
Shape - use the concave radius abrasive to initially shape or reshape the tip to a perfect sized radius, either Dime or Nickel depending on which tool you purchased, (each tool has either a "D" or an "N stamped on the end). Slowly rotate the shaft and stroke the length of the tool across the top of the tip until uniform radius is achieved. It helps to chalk the tip first so you can see what part of the tip is being removed. When the center of the tip has all of the chalk removed, you have a perfectly shaped tip.
Scuff - use the flat bottom of the tool that has the coarsest grit to scuff your tip to maximize chalk holding properties. DO NOT drag the tool across the tip surface as you will alter the shape of the tip and reduce the life of the tip. Simply press the tool firmly against the tip and either rock across the tip surface, rotate the shaft and repeat until the entire tip surface has been textured, or, roll the tip against the flat scuffer as demonstrated by Dennis Searing and Rodney Morris on their videos. You should not remove tip material while scuffing, what you are trying to do is break the glaze and provide texture to hold chalk.
Mushroom Repair - use the narrow abrasive side of the tool and roll your shaft on a flat surface and stroke the tool across the mushroomed area of your tip while rolling the shaft until tip is no longer mushroomed and is uniformly round. (Tip: keep the Scuffing surface pointed away from the ferrule while working)
Tip Burnishing - use the leather side of the tool and roll your shaft on a flat surface while RAPIDLY stroking the leather across the sides of the tip in order to seal and harden (burnish) the sides of the tip. It helps to moisten the sides of the tip with saliva prior to burnishing. In addition to improving the tip's appearance, proper burnishing strengthens the sides of the tip and will reduce mushrooming. (Tip: keep the Scuffing surface pointed away from the ferrule while working)
Shaft Burnishing - the burnishing leather has 2 sides, one side is suede and is best used for initially cleaning the shaft and the finished side works best for the final burnishing process. Wrap the leather around the shaft and RAPIDLY move it up and down while gently squeezing. Use speed to generate a little heat. The burnished shaft should be a little shiny and very smooth. If the shaft is really dirty, you can wipe first with damp (not wet) paper towel or a terry cloth and isopropyl alcohol. (Tip: a piece of "Mr Clean Magic Eraser" available in any grocery store also cleans chalk stain from shafts and ferrules quite well)
Q-Wiz - the burnisher has 2 sides, one side is a mild abrasive and is best used for initially smoothing and cleaning the shaft and the finished side works best for the final burnishing process. Wrap the leather around the shaft and RAPIDLY move it up and down while gently squeezing. Use speed to generate a little heat. The burnished shaft should be a little shiny and very smooth.